Monthly Archives: July 2015

Crate Training

Purpose of crate training is to house train, establish behaviors when you are not home, establish routines and schedules and to give them a safe den to feel comfortable in.

-Routines and structure is the key to house training

Wake up puppy comes out of crate and outside for about 20 to 30 min.

Puppy comes in and goes back into crate for feeding. In the crate for about 30 min to finish meal

Puppy comes out of crate and outside for about 30 min then can play inside for a while.

Set your timer for the first week to take the puppy out about every hour. The second week set the timer for 2 hours, third week every 3 to 4 hours. By the fourth week your puppy should start to tell you by going to the door to go outside.

Evening right before feeding send the puppy out for 30min

Puppy comes in and goes back into the crate for feeding. In the crate for about 30 min to finish meal

Send the puppy back out for about 30 min after meal

Bring puppy back in to play and spend time with the family

-When puppy is in the house always have them drag the leash around

-Have water down inside and outside all of the time

-When you are not home puppy is always in the crate for the first 1.5 to 2 years of the puppy/dogs life

-Puppy always sleeps in the crate at night until they are 6 months or you have had the puppy for 6 months you have had the puppy

-After 6 months you can start letting your puppy sleep out of the crate as long as they are sleeping through the night and not creating bad habits

-The crate should be a den and used to calm your puppy. This should be used if you can not watch the puppy. It is ok to put your puppy in the crate when you cannot supervise your puppy

-The crate is used to teach your puppy what to do when you are not home, we want them sleeping lounging and relaxing when you are not home. It is also used to keep your puppy from establishing bad habits in your home from house training to chewing or getting on furniture or counters

-You can put beds or blankets in the crate

-The best crates are ones you can create a den feel not a cage feel

-Do not put chew toys, kongs or bones in the crate, this will create habits of your dog being busy when you are away

-All chew toys should be outside or around the house

Have inside and outside toys

-Make sure you use a crate that is the size the dog will be as an adult, do not block off the crate just use it as it is, they will enjoy it much better.

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My Dog Eats Poop!!!

My dog eats poop how do I get them to stop?

With many years of training dogs I have found one of the most difficult things to fix is poop eaters. Dogs eat poop for many reasons such as nutrition absorption problems, imprinting, survival, cleaning behaviors, so they don’t get in trouble, and many many more. There are so many ideas and concepts out there that may help but I have found most of them do not. I have done a lot of research on this and have found the one solution I have liked and have helped more dogs/people then any other solution out there. It may or may not help you and your dog but if this does not help I am not sure that there is anything else out there to try.

http://www.dogpoopdiet.com/why-dogs-eat-poop/

http://www.dogpoopdiet.com/dogs-eating-poop/

I hope you enjoy the read and if you have found success or not found success please share, I would love to hear about your experience!

Offering Behaviors

Your body language says a lot to a dog and whether we know it or not, it can communicate with your dog. We can use this and teach a dog how to offer behaviors. And when we are teaching a dog to do something, we are not actually teaching them how to do it, we are just teaching them the word for it.  Also, teaching a dog to offer behaviors is not about teaching them the chain of events; they will figure that out on their own. It is about showing them the end picture and letting them work through the chain.
When starting to teach offering behaviors, if the dog is sitting, that’s good, but it’s not enough. You can give one or two kibbles and give positive verbal feedback.
The higher value behavior that you want is a down. To start you will show them 3 times by leading them down. The dog will work through it and will try to figure out what is going to give them the kibble. After doing this three times, stand up with them and let them figure it out on their own. They will try to offer different behaviors to get it, like sit, shake, etc. If the dog becomes too frustrated by aggressively jumping at the food, completely disconnecting, etc., show them one more time. Then make them do it on their own. While doing this, it is important to remember not to resource guard the food. The dog will try jumping up to get to the food, but don’t pull away, push towards the dog or the dog will think you are guarding the food. You have to think of it as their food and you are just holding it. As they are thinking and softening to you, give them positive feedback. This will help them figure out that what they are doing is right. When they figure it out and get to the down position, the dog gets the handful of treats. Work with until they offer the down as the first behavior.
You can do many things to take it farther. Many tricks and behaviors can be accomplished through the process of offering behaviors. Things like shake, closing doors, and really anything you can think of can be done through this process. Or you can choose a place you want them to be and work them there. For example, you may ask the dog to have all 4 paws on the rug. You will lead them there and treat them when they reach that point, and they don’t necessarily have to offer any certain behaviors, just be on the rug. Lead them a couple times. Next, walk to the place and see if they can figure out what gets them the treats, in this case, 4 paws on the rug. When they start figuring that out, take it farther and make them offer a certain behavior before they get all the treats. You are creating the picture for them, they are figuring out the chain that gets them there.
Joe Dickinson